The.furry.overlanders Check-Ins

Date Place Comment
November 18th, 2021 Tokwe Dam

Nice place for a night. Good for the view on the dam and good for a small walk in the area.

Follow the road until the end and choose a flat place. There are trees to prptect of the wind if you need.
There are some house around the dam, so check before to ask if it's ok just in case.
Nobody around, just the maintenance guy saw us in the morning and ask why we stay here.
He was friendly and let us.

Network coverage.

November 15th, 2021 Chamuluvali exclusive campsite

Exclusive campsite on the banks of Runde river.
toilets and braai as only equipment

very nice view over the riverbed, with hippo, crocs, waterbucks, elephants and also many birds

For SADC residents, seems it's 63 USD pppn if you book in advance, and 21 if you walk in.

November 15th, 2021 On the way to Gonarezhou

simple camp spot between hills
quiet
not visible from the road

November 15th, 2021 Causeway to Gonarezhou

During dry season, there is an access to Gonarezhou NP at this point (Which is not on OSM maps)

4×4 and high clearance are mandatory as you will cross the water on the sandy bed.

On the tarred road, A10, coming from Checheche, turn left just before the Save river bridge.

Follow "Chilo gorge safari lodge" signs, and pass the lodge.
then, a few km later, a sign indicates Gonarezhou NP, on the right.

here you are:
to enter or exit to East side of the park.

November 13th, 2021 Scenic views all around

From the main "road", we followed a dead end track to the East.
And there were plenty of camp spots.

few persons passing by just waving.

no noise
can be windy

it's 500 m from the border line to Mozambique, and while going, we crossed it to get easy access to the summits around.

no network.

November 12th, 2021 Old forestry road

just at the pass, turn north on an old road.

we parked on the road, on one of the only flat area.

nice view, nice hikes

No noise, even if you can hear the vehicles on the road as there is virtually no vehicles passing!

You may have cows visit!

no network.

November 10th, 2021 Rock top wild camp

Coming from Rusape, there is an access road before the electrical lines on your left.
Then there is a track which lead on the top of the hill.
No 4x4 needed, high clearance recommended

from there you have more than 180° views,
and on the other side, you can shelter from the wind between the trees.

not visible from the road, but you can hear the vehicles there

Cell phone reception

November 7th, 2021 Behind the hill

We found this mice plateau with views going out if the main road.

there are plenty flat areas where you can park and sleep.

Not visible from the road, but you sometime hear the vehicles on the road.

you have to meander between small trees to find the place.

we've been here in dry season:
no high grasses
many small flies and bees.

cell phone reception

November 2nd, 2021 Forest wild camp

A quiet opportunity to overnight not too far from the main road.
it's just a convenient and clean place.

Access track is visible on Openstreetmap: turn West from the T3, pass below the 4 big power lines, drive 1 km and then choose a place far enough to not hear the road noise.

Bushbabies spotted at night

Many cars, light trucks and donkey cars passed in the evening and morning, waving at us.

Access may be muddy in rainy season.

cell phone reception

October 23rd, 2021 Lake Wakawaka campsite

Very beautiful and quiet spot

We arrived in late afternoon finding friendly fishermen on the lake.
Few little flies in this season, but mosquitoes in the evening.

in the morning a person traveling back to the village said he was the watchman and that another person should have informed us about the "rules".
We bought him 2 watermelons (20 k)and it ended the story!

October 23rd, 2021 Road to Lake Wakawaka and Bangweulu Wetlands

update October 21:
the road is not that bad and beogn fixed when we passed.
It was end of dry season
bridges have been renewed
In my opinion big rig may fit

Very nice forest landscape

October 22nd, 2021 The reward after climbing the road up

A flat area 5m to a pristine water river with small pools

Few hundred meters from the main track, you have to meander through the trees to get to riverside.

Few shade in dry season (but wouldn't come in rainy one)

We spotted some animals too : warthogs, klipspringers, and black tree monkeys (Colombus?)

you can hike down to a long waterfall, or up along the river.

we spotted there after driving up for SLNP... and finally spent 2 nights!

no Airtel, no Zamtel reception

Bonus

October 21st, 2021 Small rapids on rocks

5 minutes walk down the track (in dry season) and if you bear the tse-tse flies, a very nice place to cool down.

October 15th, 2021 In front of "The island"

on a loop crossing twice a luangwa river arm.

We stopped in an open area close to a dry riverbed.
you can also drive on the island and find spots in front the the Luangwa river.

nice game viewing

Zamtel poor reception

October 13th, 2021 River side

Further the "Bush camp" noted in iOverlander, you reach a hunter camp.
Turn left and you will find several places along the river to set your camp.

Be careful of elephant and hippo tracks.

We heard Lions and other animals during the night

Zamtel phone reception and 2G

October 5th, 2021 Zambian guesthouse

Unadvertised guesthouse on the Zambian side of the park.
From South gate, access from the main road on your left just before the crossroads to Chelinda campsite.
500 m on a good travel road.

But don't expect much!

The guesthouse seems to be resting...
At the time we popped up here, no running water, no electricity and there are several clean rooms without any furniture.
we camped on the lawn in front of the building.

Hot water can be provided in buckets by the ranger in charge of the facilities.
as well as hot coals for your dinner and breakfast.

Price for foreigners :
5 USD for Zambia park entrance fees per person.
And
5 USD for camping pppn

As far as we understood, Zambian park fees are due even if you paid the Malawian park fees.
but overall deal, 10 USD pppn which is half of Chelinda campsite price...
plus awesome sunset view, which you don't have in Chelinda.

The ranger Tryford Mvula is very kind and helpful, making your stay comfortable with what's available.

Malawi Airtel signal and data

October 4th, 2021 last chance before Nyika NP gate

Few km before the Nyika North gate, turn West on a well marked path with a sign "Jehovah kingdom temple"

You will find several places to wild camp, but one only is flat, wide and clean from grasses.

awesome sunset and view on the mountains.

People passing around and waving at us.

hum.... only thing, as the road is literally on the border, the spot is geographically in Zambia.
No one bothered us with this "detail".

Malawi Airtel signal and 4g.

October 3rd, 2021 Island view

A simple spot on a beach in front of the small island.

access isn't easy and require a both 4*4 and high clearance :
the track to Tamara lodge (few kilometers further, and not accessible by car yet) is bad and rocky.
We made the path from the track to the beach and ad to use low gear to be on a flat area.

We asked local people if we could stay here.
women came to have a bath in the evening and wash dishes in the morning.
fishermen in front of the shore at night.
Nicely, all of them saw us and ignored us or warmly welcomed us!

Bad point : the beach isn't very clean...

we didn't had chance to get fresh fish from local fishermen.

cell phone reception.

September 30th, 2021 The Mushroom Farm

A stunning place :
very clean, well organised, warm, efficient and welcoming staff!
What else?
An incredible view from this nest on the lake shore 1000 m below

Access road from the lake in winding, steep and bad, access road from Livingstonia (And Mzuzu by the back road) is only bad on the last 5 km.

poor Airtel phone reception.

September 27th, 2021 Car wash

Car wash along the main avenue. 2000k for 1hour hand wash just for external. good quality and friendly

September 18th, 2021 Ntchisi Forest Wild Camp Spot

As described below!

nice wide and almost flat area, where more than 3 cars can fit.

Brave women lifting logs passing in the morning.

nice hiking trails to the forest with huge trees.

cell phone reception

September 17th, 2021 in Dongwe forest reserve

Several quiet wild camp places.
We just drove out 1 km out of the main road to a flat and cleared area.

In dry season, I hiked up the hill for a nice 360 view over the forest.

few people collecting wood passed in the morning, just waving at us.

phone and data reception

September 15th, 2021 Close to small lake

In the forest reserve, close to a small lake.
we camped on the track, and weren't disturbed.

nice views on mountains around.

cell phone reception.

September 9th, 2021 Liwonde Safari Camp

We chose this camp for the free coffee... but we will definitely come back for the very nice team, the elephants in the garden and the clean ablutions blocks where we could fit at 10!

everything described below is right.
we had elephants close to the tent every night and other animals at the hides.

We advise to do a boat tour in dry season, where you can get much closer to wildlife than with a game drive.

September 7th, 2021 Zomba plateau garden forest

The place is nice to overnight, close to the stream.
Flat and shielded from wind.

But... when arrived at night, a lot of people where on the tar road loading planks onto trucks and screaming like crazy!
we felt a bit uncomfortable but, at the end were not bothered.

In the morning, with the bird songs, we've got also chainsaw noise...

we don't know if the forest massacre going on was only chopping down invasive trees (pines and eucalyptus) or... a coming end for the forest...

September 7th, 2021 Zomba plateau garden forest

Small correction :
the forest is being chopped down by parts every year, between August and October.
so you may avoid this time if you want a quiet environment.

September 3rd, 2021 Close to the cathedral

We slept just close the the old cathedral.

We asked the guard if it was possible and hadn't any issue.

people passing close to our car in the morning, very friendly and welcoming

Vodacom signal.

September 2nd, 2021 burnt before cultivate...

A quiet stop on the way to or from the border to Malawi.
on the N11 toward border, turn left and drive around 2-3 km to avoid parking in the cultivated crops.
at the end of the track, it will be forest.

accessible with high range vehicle, no big rig.
not sure how it would be during rainy season or if was not burnt.

Nothing special, but not visible from the N11 and no village around.

When we were there, it was all burnt and people would start to chop down the trees soon, then cultivate mandioca.

no Vodacom reception

August 29th, 2021 Fishermen place

South of Zalala, along to a narrow dirt track
update : you can't park your car between the trees !
police came late in the morning to fine us saying we're driving in a protected area.

We asked a fisherman if we could set our camp close to his house for one night, he accepted.
(speaking Portuguese will help a lot...)

nothing special but :
grassy ground with thorns
nobody bothered us
In the morning you can see fishermen pulling the net from the shore
And vodacom signal

August 28th, 2021 N1 - military check points

From Inchope to Gorongosa crossroad :
military (fake or not?) stopping you every 2-3 km.

exhausting and annoying as they all ask for water or money.

Be polite, respectful, continue to smile and please don't give anything!


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