Bonampak's caseta de cobro | Checkpoint

Mexico

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Verified:
7 months ago
Altitude:
299.0 masl
Contributor:
maxtraveling

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They charge 35 pp here for the community, but a bit further there is a roadblock where they prevent you to access the archeological site yourself and want to charge 100 pp to transport you to the site in their own van. We turned around they didn't look legit/honest. Save your money and go to Yaxchilan.

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Just for your information: You don’t need to pay if you are just passing through this small city.

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Be aware that (by Jan 2022) if you want to see Bonampak the pricing is: 30 Pesos/person vkllage fee + 70 Pesos/person Bonampak entrance fee + 600!!! Pesos/car transportation (can't go in your own car!). Ridiculous!!!

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A man (who was friendly :-)) told us it was 30 pesos pr person for the road tax, then 100 pesos pp for the taxi to the ruins (we came ln our car) and 70 pesos pp for the entrance. So 200 pesos pp seemed way to much so we moved on and didnt go. The man got annoyed, but remained friendly and polite.

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Police and other people were there. There were also topes. But they waved us through.

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Site magnifique avec un guide top Chanbor (orthographe approximative) nous avons payé par personne : 30 entrée de communauté + 150 taxi. Le guide pas obligatoire mais le nôtre super bien la visite a duré 1h30, nous avons 300 pour nous deux. Bref pas donné mais vaut franchement le détour

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They charge you 35 pesos per person for entering their area (lancodones), even if you're just going to Bonampak. Questionable, but legit, with ticket and all.
The next one, that's whole another story though. We knew about it from iOverlander already, so we weren't surprised when about 8km from the ruins, we saw two vans kind of blocking the road, with about three indigenous people stopping us quickly. They said that we can't drive further and we have to go in their van. Even when I disagree with the tactic (basically just indigenous road block ripoff - yes I know it's their territory (kind of), but the road was built by the state), I agreed and we got out of our car.
Then they said it will be 300 pesos for the two of us - I immediately told them, that people have been here recently and paid 200, so we want to pay that. No way, they wouldn't budge or change the price - they explained that it is 100pp, but only if we're 3 or more people. For the two, it is 300, period.
I tried to talk them down, saying it's just 8km and it's a bit silly price. We decided we'll wait if someone else will arrive(or if they lower the price) - when we told the guy we'll wait for another group so we can join, he told us it's low season and maybe we wait for a long time (low season sure, but 200 is not enough for 10km...). Went and used the WC there, no toilet paper or price posted, buy a guy charged us 5pp after coming out... Anyway, after 5min, a car with small private tour arrived - three people and their driver. We came and asked their driver if they would mimd if we join their "indie van" and we'd chip in - he said of course, no problem. As we were speaking, that guy from toll booth practically ran to us saying we cannot do that. I said why, your vans are big (ford e-350) and we want to share. No, not possible, van drivers don't like that. We told him the tour people don't mind, we don't, so we're going with them, period. So he quickly turned and basically told on us and the two other indigenous told us we can't do that and we have to go on our own and pay 300. We can't share with them, cause the drivers don't like it. No persuasion helped, they were just ridiculous, very rude and basically laughing in our face. Tour vehicle driver and his passengers had no problem with us, van was really big for all of us, price was still ridiculous (we'd pay 500p together for about 16km drive) but no, you have to go in another car.
There really is nothing legit about this, just basically a few locals blocked the road and decided to charge ridiculous amount for a very short ride on state built paved road. No ticket, bill, nada - they were probably envious about Yaxchilán boat trips charging more money, so they inventes their own cash cow. It was clear that foreign people are now viewed there only as a cash cow, so forget the romantic dreams about indigenous communities. Not these guys.
I could go and take it all, but the ridiculous forbidding us to share a cab after waiting got me. Go and spend your money elsewhere, these people definitely do not deserve it - the less people come, the more they will try and treat them fairly and honestly.
At Yaxchilán they will try a bit too, but the boat can be shared and the price is the same per boat (after some negotiation) - as it should be. And they are my favourite ruins from all in Mexico :)

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This is how it works at Bonampak:
At the entrance to the ejido and the road towards the ruins you will be charged 30 M$ pp for entrance to the ejido. You have to pay the money even if you only go to the ruins and never set a foot in the village, which you reach by a sideroad from the road to the ruins. Their is an official caseta, you get a ticket and there is no way around it. Maybe if you arrive late (as we did in Yaxhilan where we didnt pay the entrance fee of 20 M$ pp) you can avoid it.
From the caseta you can drive around 3 km further towards the ruins. You will end at a parking lot where you have to park your private vehicle and pay 100 M$ pp for a return taxiride to the ruins. A drive of about 9 km. Therefore an absurd price. It is an official arrangement though, nothing obscure. Before you arrive at the ruins you have paid 130 per person! Entrance fee that you pay at the site is 65 pp.
Is it worth the price? Yaxcilan is a more impressive site beautifully situated in the jungle with a great lancha ride before and after. So if you have to choose, go for Yaxcilan.
Bonampaks murals are wonderful, though, and not something you see at other sites. I would try to forget the feeling of getting cheated and go for it. We almost turned around at the caseta but are happy we did not.

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They charge 35 pp here for the community, but a bit further there is a roadblock where they prevent you to access the archeological site yourself and want to charge 100 pp to transport you to the site in their own van. We turned around they didn't look legit/honest. Save your money and go to Yaxchilan.

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